A Closer Look at… Dumbarton Oaks
Some people may live in Washington for quite a long time, but fail to notice the beauty right in front of them! An enigmatic, mysteriously interesting place in the north-west of Washington is sure to steal your heart away as soon as you get to know it first hand.
Located on 16 acres in Georgetown, Dumbarton Oaks is steeped in history and scholarship. The land itself was once known as the Rock of Dumbarton. It appears on a map as early as 1716 – more than 80 years before the federal government moved to Washington, making it the capital of the USA. The house was once owned by John C. Calhoun, (1782–1850) – a significant politician, who managed to be a vice president under both John Quincy Adams and Andrew Jackson.
The estate’s last private owners were diplomat Robert Woods Bliss and his wife, Mildred. Mildred Bliss wanted to create a garden that would incorporate elements of the traditional French, English, and Italian gardens she admired so much and one that would still be distinctively original. Three principles governed the overall plan: first, there was a progressive informality in the design, materials and plantings as the gardens recede down the hillside; second, plants were chosen for their beauty and interest in all seasons; third, the garden should provide space for living. Enclosed areas, or garden rooms were therefore created that would be suitable for family use or for entertaining. So, in addition to a swimming pool and several tennis courts, there is an open-air theatre – a feature of many great 17th and 18th century gardens.
The stone, (mostly, marble, bluestone and limestone) used in the gardens comes from quarries in five American states (Maryland, Virginia, Pennsylvania, Tennessee, Indiana) and two countries: Mexico and Italy. All finials and almost all garden sculptures were designed and carved out of Indiana limestone right for the particular spot at Dumbarton Oaks. Most of the sculptures were designed by Beatrix Farrand, some after designs suggested by a Parisian designer Armand Albert Rateau.
The original property covered 53 acres. In 1940, the Blisses conveyed 16 acres of the property and buildings to Harvard University to establish Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and Collection. At the same time, 27 acres were given to the National Park Service, most of which form Dumbarton Oaks Park bordering the gardens on the north, and 10 acres were sold to the Danish government for their embassy complex.
Today, the 19th century Federal style house is owned by Harvard University and houses important collections in Byzantine studies, the history of landscape architecture and Pre-Columbian studies, all of which were begun by Robert and Mildred Woods. The Byzantine collection contains both religious and secular objects crafted in mosaic, metal, enamel and ivory and is considered one of the finest in America. The Pre-Columbian collection, also highly regarded, consists primarily of artifacts and textiles from Mexico, Central and South America. This collection is housed in a glass pavilion designed by famed architect Philip Johnson. Also on display are the music room which features “The Visitation”, a famous painting by the Spanish artist El Greco, and selections from Mrs. Bliss’s collection of rare illustrated garden books.
The gardens deserve special attention. As you enter the territory of Dumbarton Oaks, a small path curves invitingly into the greenery behind the fence. The formal gardens occupy 10 acres. The major work was completed between 1921 and 1941, although Mrs. Bliss continued changing and enriching the gardens later as well. Designed by noted landscape architect Beatrix Farrand, the gardens remain a mixture of traditional English, Italian and French styles, just as Mildred Bliss once planned them. Highlights include a rose garden, an English country garden and an Orangery. In addition, the site encompasses an interlocking series of terraces, geometric gardens, tree-shaded brick walks, fountains, arbors and pools!
A full-time crew of a dozen gardeners works year-round to maintain the gardens. Whenever you come to Dumbarton Oaks, from mid-March to October, you are sure to find something in bloom. From March till April there is a true cherry tree blossom festival! At this time of the year you can also see forsythia, wisteria, dogwood, azaleas and akebias, lilacs and star magnolias in bloom. In May numerous roses, clematises, peonies, fringe trees and perennial borders join in. In June a rare tropical canna is in bloom. In July and August you are sure to witness the brightness of fuchsias, gardenias, daylilies, agapanthuses and oleanders. When fall comes, traditional autumn flowers like chrysanthemums and asters liven up the landscape.
The magnificence of the place was noted by two bright personalities, who could not miss visiting it while staying in Washington. In the beginning of the 20th century, Polish pianist and statesman Jan Paderewski autographed the piano in the house’s music room while a famed Russian composer Igor Stravinsky premiered several of his works there.
Dumbarton Oaks hasn’t just been a place of beauty. It was noted for significant political events, too. During World War II, Soviet, Chinese, American and British delegates met in the same room to lay the groundwork for what became the charter of the United Nations.
On leaving Dumbarton Oaks, I felt that I was abandoning another world or planet. When I heard the intricately designed wicket closing behind me, I had a strong feeling that the place I’ve just left was a fairy-tale country with its own laws, traditions and customs. No doubt, it’s next to impossible to get to know and observe it all, but it’s also hardly possible not to fall in love with it! So once you come to Washington, be sure to put Dumbarton Oaks on your itinerary and I promise you won’t regret it!